Flash visit on the Etna

 

The current eruption started on February 4 by a large crack in the South-Eastern cone. Since nearly 15 days, the lava flows towards Valle del Bove on nearly 2 Kms. It is the first eruption except summit craters since 1993. Frequent visits on the Etna telecamera and the site of Boris Benhcke press me to leave. The weather is nice for the 4 next days, and an answer of Boris to my mall filled with questions is unambiguous: " Go for it ". We are Friday February 19...

Off we go!

  • Final decision and purchase of the tickets Friday afternoon. We will leave tomorrow and return Monday.
  • Takeoff Saturday little after midday with 20 min delay, arrival to Catane little after 15h00, 10 min in advance.
  • Hiring of a small car for the two days (no time to lose in joint transport).
  • Direction Etna with stop at Nicolosi to buy water and food, to be able to survive until Monday.
  • Arrival at Sapienza, the last accessible place by car, and departure of the cable car, towards 17h30.

The sky starts to darken. We learn that the cable car functions (the ski resort is open), and that it is open 9 to 16h00. Fast dialogue and checking of the price of a night with the CAI (clubo alpino italiano). For 80000 liras for two + breakfast, it is more expensive than the Youth Hostel of Nicolosi, but that enables us to consider a walk towards Valle del Bove, from where we should see the lava.

Le seigneur Etna
The Etna under snow, approaching Catania

Towards 18h15, it is becoming very dark and we leave, provided with a small picnic, in direction the path that one indicated to us. The way to the edge of the valley is longer than envisaged, but the night is clear and the path well marked. Towards 19h30, we arrive at the edge of the valley and can see, to some 4 km to the top of the valley, the red flows of which we had been able to see the gleams in the sky for one hour. Two or three red lines intersect over a lenght of approximately a kilometer, the bottom of some flows becoming very dark until invisible.

Valle del Bove
Sight on the flows of the Valle del Bove

Back to the CAI towards 21h00. I phone Boris and explains our planning to him: we must be of return to Sapienza Monday midday at the latest, because of the plane. He explains that he intends to go up only at the beginning of afternoon. So we'll not meet!  
After one night rather good, veiled us ready at 9h00 in front of the cases of the cable car. "Troppo vento!" It is necessary to wait... After several false start, and a beginning of feetclimb quickly stopped at the sight of the cabins which go up with people, we arrive at the terminus of the montagnola towards 10h30. Here we are with our bags for the final trek in snow. One arrives exhausted at Torre del Filisofo, after 1h30 or 2h00 of painful walk in the frozen wind, and after having been passed by other tourists in ski-doo.

Ski-doo
Pause during up walk, while ski-doo passes us

We eat a well deserved meal and a hot soup, then we considere where to plant our tent. Few sheltered places are presented to us, so we will visit the " cellar ", only opening of the stone condemned building. The tip was good (thank you Thierry) and the temperature surprisingly mild, of 5 to 10°C, probably. We install there our bags and we direct finally towards the lava which we know to be at 200m from there.

Origine des coulées
At the base of S-E cone: start of the flows

The crack of SE cone is very visible, and at the base of the cone a large dark mass tinted with sulphur awaits us. A score of volcanophile tourists turn goshawks of the vents,  red mouths and other beginnings of flows. From vents with powerful and regular breath, we pass to the holes at the bottom of which the bubbling lava is seen, then, a little below, lava leaving the tunnels channeled in small   channels of 30 cm to 2 m broad. The heat barrier will not stop us to try to pick a piece of fresh lava with my ice axe. Photographs, though from poor quality because of very present smoke of sulphur and of steam will describe better what one saw. shadow

phone

flow close
We returned at the base camp to eat and to add layers against the cold accentuated by the wind, looked at the sun lying down on the sea of clouds, then went back for the night observation. Very pretty in the night, these red rivers look more numerous and more accessible. They are it in fact less accessible, and we are very affected by the sulphur vapors. After 30-40 min of observation, we return to sleep (well, at least to try). night

night close
After having been turned over 168 times over the night, in sweats, we leave our bag towards 7h30. The cone is more clear than yesterday, the crack is very well seen, and there are no more clouds on Sicily downwards. A good breakfast after having made our bags, then we go down, accompanied by a very strong wind. No telpher carriers to go down again. We arrive towards 11h00 at Sapienza, then take again our car direction Nicolosi to make some shopping, to eat an at last, a good gelato, then continue towards the airport where we arrive towards 14h00, the plane leaving towards 15h00.

Departure of the plane with 5 min of delay, arrival at Bxl with 25
min of delay...
 

 

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Last update of this site: 06 août 01  
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